Colobus

Originally uploaded by furtwangl

(Tom:) Just a quick post from our friends’ house in Dar es Salaam. We are back from two days of hiking in the Uluguru Mountains outside of Morogoro, about 3 hours by bus (200 km) west of Dar. We had two great hikes, really vertical pushes on mountain paths, rewarded by fabulous views. Claire was a trooper, the hikes definitely challenged her and she had fun and hiked hard. We used the local cultural tourism program, who provided a wonderful young guide named Andrew, quick with a bright smile and great English and a friendly joke for everyone we passed.

Tuesday we hiked three hours up to Choma village where we had a traditional and delicious lunch, ugali and sauce and cassava greens in a simple brick home with a stunning view of the waterfalls, valleys, and plains. And back down again, slipping down muddy and sometimes slick paths through little homesteads growing corn and fruit and sugarcane and cassava in little subsistence plots, far beyond the reach of any vehicles, or power lines, though not, of course, beyond the reach of cell phones, our guide on his at least once an hour.

Wednesday, our last hike of the trip, we went into a forested ravine outside Morogoro and found black and white colobus monkeys, and vervet monkeys, and blue monkeys, in a perfect closure to the trip. Seven weeks ago we arrived at the Colobus Trust in Diani, Kenya, to begin our trip working with colobus and other monkeys, and yesterday we ended our trip visiting with them again in the forest. We watched the colobus for a long time, and they watched us, and when we climbed (straight) up the (steep!) ridge to where we could overlook the forest, there they still were, sitting in the top of the trees, visible far below us.

Returning to Morogoro, we took a little afternoon detour to have two wonderful old fellows make us some special sandals in their “shop” under a tree, but other than the photos, I might have to save that story for Claire to tell, or make you wait to see these very special sandals in person.

Today it was three hours of bus back to Dar, a quick stop at the I-TECH office (and for me a bracing reminder that work awaits), and then out to our friends’ place in the green, quiet, rich neighborhood on the peninsula. He’s a diplomat and we are already getting a taste of home with their washer, dryer, and pantry full of American foods. We’re grateful for a big, welcoming home in which to spend these last two days getting organized for travel.

With two days left to wind down in Dar, our thoughts are turning to the rest of the summer in Seattle. Lyanda has put in her shopping requests for what she’d like waiting in our cupboard and fridge, Claire is talking about friends, and cat, and grandparents, and we’re happily spending time over sodas and meals, reflecting on what a great trip it has been.