Jun 14 2008
Shimba Hills
Tom: So… Claire blogged about the python (they grow big enough to take small antelope!) (hi Tauna!), and Lyanda blogged about the sleeping sickness-carrying tse tse flies (sleeping sickess is not endemic in eastern Kenya, no worries). It falls to me to blog about our wet, wet hike to beautiful Sheldrick Falls at Shimba Hills park, and reassure you that we had an awesome day despite the grandmother-alarming nature of all of these posts. I’ll add the leopard paw print as my photo just to round out the “wild Africa” picture.
Shimba Hills is a second-tier Kenyan park about 45 minutes up into the hills from here, and today we seemed to be almost the only visitors. The weather was intermittently rainy (it is one of Kenya’s last coastal rainforests) but the clouds brought out the animals for us; we saw 100% of the park’s giraffes (there are two) and impalas (there is one), as well as a number of elephants close-up (they often are in the woods or only seen on distant hillsides), some amazing birds (eagles, vultures, bee-eaters, kingfishers, guinea fowl), and the incredible sable antelope which, in Kenya, can only be seen in this park.
After a game drive we collected a ranger (and her AK-47), and drove to the trail head for Sheldrick Falls, a 2km hike. On the way down the ridge we had a hopeful moment of sun but by halfway there it was showering. We spent a nice few minutes at the foot of the falls, and as we turned to leave the downpour began… and never let up, the entire way back. We were DRENCHED. It was warm enough (maybe 75 degrees today) but really, really wet, and by the time we got back to the car we were all completely soaked. We did our best to wring out, and parked Claire in the front seat by the heater vent, but our heart had kind of gone out of game-driving, so we didn’t tarry in the park too much longer before heading back.
Of course when we came back here, after a hot cup of coffee and a change into dry clothes, the troops of colobus and sykes monkeys were swinging chattering through the trees above our driveway. Oh, and I found a new kind of millipede, with red legs (lots of them!). It’s pretty incredible right outside our door, and we didn’t even make it the 200 metres down to the beach today!
A couple of asides — We’ve mentioned Helen, the bush baby researcher staying here. She was kind enough to share a few of her bush baby photos, though we have not see one yet ourselves (they are nocturnal and very shy). And we won’t keep blogging at this pace, we’ll settle into a routine here next week and only post substantively every few days. But for the moment, our excitement is making us verbose!
Everything but the millipede wows me. Loved the leopard paw print. Too bad you can’t make a cement cast of it! I feel devoid of grandmotherly alarm; you all sound happy and well supplied with food, shelter, care, and daily adventure. Claire–watch it with the pythons! I envy you all that great beach. The blogs are really satisfying.
love, cookie
Even the macro millipedes wow me. I look forward every evening to catching up with the Furtwanglers. Thanks so much for bringing us along on the adventure.
I have heard of the “bee eater” bird, but have never liked the sound of that name–being an ex-beekeeper. However, if interested, one can track the bee eater’s flight path back to discover the wild colony.
It sounds like y’all are having a big time. Keep the blogs posting, as they are very exciting!
Thanks, Bob Rice
Is it fair to say that you have discovered a part of ‘paradise’ in Kenya? What a cleansing relief to move away from political news here to the seeming tranquility of your adventure. We had friends here the other night and nothing would do but that I insisted that your photo album be put on the lap top and we had ’show and tell’ in the living room. Claire, just imagine what you will have to tell when you get back to school-You will have to take over the class to bring them up to date.
Love to you all,
Joan and Emero