We’ve all made it safe and sound back to Seattle, Lyanda and Claire on Monday and me on Thursday. We’re home to the Blue Angels, an overgrown and abundant yard, and the spirited welcome of friends and family (including banners!). Thanks to all of you who kept us blogging with your encouraging comments and e-mails, and to those of you who pitched in to help care for our house, our work, our cat, our blog, and so on.

What a trip! It was truly a life-changer, with lots of deep experiences, new friendships, and plenty to ponder about travel, Africa, poverty, hope, development, conservation, and more, food for thought and conversation and reflection in the months and years to come.

I’m re-organizing the blog a bit to make it work better as an archive, and we’ll leave it up for future reference. If you want to see all of our photos, on the Flickr.com site, follow this link, and you can click on individual images or see a slide show online.

And we have our next trip to start thinking about and planning - we’re thinking neo-tropical rainforest. Belize? Costa Rica? Amazon?!? The next adventure awaits!

Colobus

Originally uploaded by furtwangl

(Tom:) Just a quick post from our friends’ house in Dar es Salaam. We are back from two days of hiking in the Uluguru Mountains outside of Morogoro, about 3 hours by bus (200 km) west of Dar. We had two great hikes, really vertical pushes on mountain paths, rewarded by fabulous views. Claire was a trooper, the hikes definitely challenged her and she had fun and hiked hard. We used the local cultural tourism program, who provided a wonderful young guide named Andrew, quick with a bright smile and great English and a friendly joke for everyone we passed.

Tuesday we hiked three hours up to Choma village where we had a traditional and delicious lunch, ugali and sauce and cassava greens in a simple brick home with a stunning view of the waterfalls, valleys, and plains. And back down again, slipping down muddy and sometimes slick paths through little homesteads growing corn and fruit and sugarcane and cassava in little subsistence plots, far beyond the reach of any vehicles, or power lines, though not, of course, beyond the reach of cell phones, our guide on his at least once an hour.

Wednesday, our last hike of the trip, we went into a forested ravine outside Morogoro and found black and white colobus monkeys, and vervet monkeys, and blue monkeys, in a perfect closure to the trip. Seven weeks ago we arrived at the Colobus Trust in Diani, Kenya, to begin our trip working with colobus and other monkeys, and yesterday we ended our trip visiting with them again in the forest. We watched the colobus for a long time, and they watched us, and when we climbed (straight) up the (steep!) ridge to where we could overlook the forest, there they still were, sitting in the top of the trees, visible far below us.

Returning to Morogoro, we took a little afternoon detour to have two wonderful old fellows make us some special sandals in their “shop” under a tree, but other than the photos, I might have to save that story for Claire to tell, or make you wait to see these very special sandals in person.

Today it was three hours of bus back to Dar, a quick stop at the I-TECH office (and for me a bracing reminder that work awaits), and then out to our friends’ place in the green, quiet, rich neighborhood on the peninsula. He’s a diplomat and we are already getting a taste of home with their washer, dryer, and pantry full of American foods. We’re grateful for a big, welcoming home in which to spend these last two days getting organized for travel.

With two days left to wind down in Dar, our thoughts are turning to the rest of the summer in Seattle. Lyanda has put in her shopping requests for what she’d like waiting in our cupboard and fridge, Claire is talking about friends, and cat, and grandparents, and we’re happily spending time over sodas and meals, reflecting on what a great trip it has been.

• 22-july 8pm- Second great day of guided hiking in hills above Morogoro. Yesterday up to a high village for local lunch. #
• … Lovely simple hot food after 3 hours of climbing past small homestead farms. Incredible views and many waterfalls. #
• Wed - hiked in forested ravine to see Colobus monkeys-a perfect way to end the trip! Thurs we’ll bus back to Dar & wrap up! #

Jambiani beach, Zanzibar

Originally uploaded by furtwangl

Lyanda: Hello Friends. We bid a fond farewell to the famed spice island (we really enjoyed Zanzibar, including the endless winding alleys of Stone Town, more than we even thought we would). Stayed a night with friends in Dar es Salaam (thank you Liz and Steve!), and took a three or four hour bus ride to the small town of Morogoro–it’s good to be back in the hills, and the cool, fresh air. We’re staying at a little backpacker hostel outside of town, and taking a day hike up to a Luguru village tomorrow, where we’ll have a local lunch. I’m looking forward to exploring these foothills of the Uluguru mountains (the usual depressing story–gorgeous, unique rainforest, high endemism, dismal conservation outlook), and learning more about the Luguru people–an actual matrilineal tribe! Three nights here and it’s back to Dar, where we repack, and Claire and I get ready to head HOME!

Dalla Dalla to Jambiani

See all photos uploaded by furtwangl

Between trips to Stone Town (the one big town/city on Zanzibar) for film festival-related stuff, we are chilling on the beach in the small village of Jambiani, on the southeast coast of Zanzibar. It’s gorgeous here, turquoise water over white sand, shallow for 4 KM out to the reef, water and air a nice temperature, and we’re staying five nights in a really wonderful little hotel, built in a naturalistic/rustic style, with friendly staff and a great menu (fresh juices to die for). Bliss. See the photos.

Jambiani is a Muslim fishing village that has been discovered by a few small hotels and tourists, but is not overbuilt like we hear a few other beaches on the island are, and definitely does not feel touristy. When you walk out the gate of the hotel to the beach, or onto the one sandy village street, you find yourself surrounded by village life. In the village it’s simple stone houses, little tiny shops with basics (fruite, biscuits, sugar, flour, batteries, washing soap), and people pedaling by on the stalwart black Chinese bicycles they favor here. On both the beach and the road are the usual plethora of unemployed (but friendly and laid back) teenage boys (”you come from which country?”), and children yelling Jambo or, with special excitement to Claire, “Jambo mtoto!” (”Hi, kid!”)

On the beach it’s fishermen with their distinctive outrigger dhow sailboats, which we have sailed on and snorkeled from twice, and more interestingly, women in full, modest Muslim dress tending their “fields” - in the last decade a major cottage industry has grown up here, growing seaweed which is processed into a thickener for toothpaste and other cosmetics. When the tide is low, there are dozens of women out in waist deep water, tending the crop, mostly in skirts and tops but a few wearing full Islamic covering leaving only a slit for their eyes. Apparently it’s possible to earn a modest living - maybe $75 a month - this way, at 200 shillings a kilo for the dry seaweed, and more importantly, it’s a way for women to earn an income directly, a rarity here. (Photos of the seaweed farmers will come next time).

Yesterday morning I took the “dalla-dalla” or shared minibus across the island to go to the film festival. In fact here they are generally not minibuses at all, like they are in Kenya (”matatus”) and other parts of Tanzania, but instead are trucks with passenger areas built onto the back, featuring a basic plank seat around the truck bed inside, covered by a metal canopy strong enough to carry a big load to or from the destination. The dalla dalla was a dollar fifty each way, aned took almost two hours, as opposed to forty dollars for the one hour taxi ride.

I’ve been joking with Lyanda that I’m a dalla-dalla expert now, but mostly it was an interesting experience and it does allow me to impart a few key pieces of dalla dalla knowledge, dear reader, should you require them for your own future dalla dalla riding. First of all, there’s always room for one more passenger - yesterday I counted 26 adults and six kids at our most crammed, including four guys hanging off the back. When you get to the police checkpoint, if you are overcrowded, just before the checkpoint the dalla dalla slows so that the guys hanging off the back - the ones who can’t be crammed inside - can hop down and casually walk through the checkpoint. One hundred meters further on, the dalla dalla pulls over, the guys come loping up and jump on the back bumper again, it’s all very wink wink with the police.

Another important point is the handling of parcels including babies. The dalla dalla is a two-man operation, with the driver and the conductor. The conductor rides on the back bumper, hanging on and yelling for customers on the side of the road by proclaiming the destination (Jambiani!! Jambiani!!). He also taps on the roof to signal the driver to stop or go. He also loads the parcels onto the roof - there seems to be no extra charge no matter the size, one woman had nine large bundles of firewood. But most importantly, he holds your baby while you climb into the crowded dalla dalla and squeeze onto the bench, at which point the baby (or woven palm-frond cage of chickens, or bag of fruit, or other market purchases) is handed down the line of riders, lap to lap, back to you. The babies seem quite accustomed, and the two I passed did not put up any fuss at all as they were passed. The reverse happens as you exit - your baby, or palm crate of chickens, is passed out to the conductor, as you follow, squeezing your way out of the overcrowded but generally jovial interior of the dalla dalla.

Oh, and one final point - an empty dalla dalla never leaves. If you walk to the dalla dalla stand (”standie” – everything erie is given an “ie” on the endie when anglicizedie) and see your dalla dalla sitting empty, or just with a passenger or two inside, you have plenty of time to go have a juice, or maybe some peanuts (”ground nuts”) or even to pee, in the stinky alley behind the market. It’s a long, bumpy ride, best faced with an empty bladder and some good humor.

We crossed to the east coast of Zanzibar today, to a gorgeous little boutique hotel on a white sand beach with azure water. The hotel website is pretty accurate. Posting quickly from a one-room, one-computer internet shack in the village, manned by a teenager who wants to have us all to dinner tomorrow. He’s sitting outside under a palm tree reading his biology textbook, but assures us he’ll “prepare something very special.” Um, maybe. But first, tomorrow morning, we snorkel. Then Thursday back to the Zanzibar International Film Festival for me, leaving my poor family in hammocks under the palms here.

“John” the chameleon

Originally uploaded by furtwangl

The other day when we were on a walk to Irente Viewpoint in the Usambara Mountains, and had just arrived, we met a boy named Raphael with a chameleon on his stick. He said the chameleon’s name was “John.” I think that is kind of a weird name for a chameleon but a name is a name no matter how strange. I thought that was awesome, being able to see John so close up, but then I got to hold him!! John slowly climbed onto me and clung to my fingers like a baby clings to your fingers. Boy were his feet weird! He had two green “toes” on each foot, which he held to you with, as if the world were about to end. Then John started to slowly climb up my arm. His mouth is pink like he has lipstick on, and his back is a mixture of white, green, and blue. When he had crawled up to my elbow he stopped. That’s when Raphael took John back on his stick. Chameleons rock!!!

(Tom:) Hi all, we have made it to Zanzibar, and are poking around Stone Town. It’s the week of the Zanzibar International Film Festival, and I have a film in the festival so I’m here for that and attending some of the festival while Lyanda and Claire explore and lounge. Of course the festival’s schedule web page had “schedule will be posted in May” until about a week ago, and e-mail notice that the film was accepted only came around July 1, so it was very hard to plan this part of the trip, but we’re here, the film is in (showing Thursday in a day of AIDS-oriented films), and meanwhile there are other good films to see in the festival, and some music and arts, and a bit of the island to explore.

Usambara Sisters’ products

Originally uploaded by furtwangl

Claire: St. Eugene’s Hostel is very nice. But one awesome thing about it is that it grows these very yummy berries called gooseberries (sadly though, they don’t look a thing like geese). Yesterday, a giggle-pot nun named Sister Maria allowed me to try a gooseberry. The gooseberries are covered with a leaf-like skin (something like the outside of a flower bud), which you peel off. The berry itself is orange, round, and smooth. They are veeeery sweet (they’re like candy)! They’re almost too sweet for my mom (I think she’s crazy)! But I love them! St. Eugene’s is awesome (so says the gooseberry addict)! Extra note: the sisters here make gooseberry jam!

Lyanda: So, where else would it seem perfectly fine to be walking a secluded path in the woods or through fields, and see a man we don’t know walk up to my daughter carrying a giant machete? Happens all the time here, and we just wave and say “Habari.” The other day, we passed a man jogging barefoot down the hill with an entire palm tree on his shoulder. Travel is good for us, yes? Love to all. xo, L

Greetings from the small mountain town of Lushoto, in the Western Usambara mountains of northern Tanzania. It’s market day and I’ve just walked 3km into town and then through the busy market of women selling oranges, tomatoes, and avocados, in search of internet, a cold drink, and a little information from the tourist office about how to program our last day here, tomorrow, and catch an onward bus on Saturday, to Tanga on the coast. From Tanga we’ll hope to catch the daily 4PM flight to Zanzibar - $7 for the 4 hour bus ride to Tanga, and $115 for the 15-minute flight on a 13-seater to Zanzibar!

Down the switchbacks on that bus we’ll all be taking some Dramamine for sure, it’s a twisty road up here to the cool pine forest in this town originally settled by the Germans as a summer retreat from the humidity of the coast. In fact the Germans considered making this their administrative center, and the governor moved up here for several months each year. There is still a presidential retreat up here, just up the road from Lushoto, set among the eucalyptus and these remarkable pines they have here, with branches radiating like perfectly spaced stars. (Photos to come tomorrow).

We’ve enjoyed three great days of hiking in the cool forests (saw a trogon!) and across the cultivated valleys up here, based at Muller’s Lodge, which we highly, highly recommend (if you can handle hot and cold running service in a colonial setting for $55 a night, breakfast included). Today we shifted for two more nights to a Catholic convent, school, and guest house called St. Eugene’s Hostel, closer to town, and we’ll hike from there tomorrow. Then on to Zanzibar.

This trip is going exceedingly well. We’ve settled into the rhythm of life on the road in Africa, are still enjoying each others’ company (to the point of all three sharing a king size bed the next 2 nights!!), and have had a wonderful time at each and every stop so far. We regularly play a game of “what was your favorite?” (place we’ve gone, thing, bird, animal, sign we’ve seen, person we’ve met), and we’re all hard pressed to pick favorites. (Though our LEAST favorite hotel and driver went together, in Mombasa the last day - an overpriced German all-inclusive hotel, and a driver bound and determined to kill us all en route to the airport through rain-slicked streets, dodging between port-bound trucks).

One funny thing about the Usambara Mountains, where we are, is the culture of “guiding” that has somehow developed here. They want to provide a guide for every step you take out of your room. At Muller’s Lodge, though they have several (genteel, older) in-house guides, they were kind enough to provide a booklet with directions for local hikes in the forest. And to be honest, it *can* be confusing, since these hills are well populated and riddled with little paths. But we convinced them to let us hike without a guide both days, and both days we managed to find our way, and if we got a bit turned around we simply asked directions - you can’t go 5 minutes on any path up here without seeing someone, it’s populated at something like 300 people per square kilometer.

On the first day the forest path we were supposed to take, according to our booklet instructions, was completely overgrown, but as soon as we started down it about four farmers, hoeing their little plots across the creek on the opposite ridge started yelling to us and pointing to the path through their fields. We wanted woods, so we obstinately went on 100 yards further, and sure enough the forest trail was completely overgrown (why walk in the forest?! The fields are on the other side of the valley!). So we retreated, the farmers laughed, and in broken Kiswahili I ascertained the correct path to “Mama Muller’s,” across the fields of maize and sugar cane, and up the hill.

But today again, at the St Eugene Hostel, we wanted to go for an afternoon walk. Inguiring about which direction we might walk from the property (which is on the main valley road to Lushoto), I was told “you should wait for a guide, but he will not be here until this evening.” Advice we happily ignored, embarking on an hour-long walk up the road and down the dirt roads with remarkable views across the valley. Lyanda and Claire turned back but we were so close that I carried on to town - with dinner at 7:30 there are long afternoons to fill here - and with 6 minutes of internet time left I guess I’d better think about heading back.

We are thinking of you all, and already with just over 2 weeks left, our thoughts turn to August in Seattle (and mine, to work! Right, that thing I do for money!). Seattle, friends, conections there, feel both far and close, carrying you all in our hearts as we do (and mentioning each of you with surprising regularity, as we see things you would be interested in, like, dislike, etc - bikes, snakes, birds, clinics, hikes, construction sites, nuns, Harry Potter-brand chocolate snacks!)

• 7/9 6pm - Our last evening @ Muller’s lodge. Great hike today to a waterfall in the forest, and wandered back on footpaths thru the hills. #
• From Thurs we stay in Lushoto town with nuns; more hiking; Sat bus to Tanga and 15 min flight to Zanzibar for next week. #